Virupaksha Temple, Hampi
Amid the ruins of an empire on the Tungabhadra, Pampapati has never ceased to be worshipped.
The Virupaksha Temple at Hampi, on the south bank of the Tungabhadra, is dedicated to Shiva as Virupaksha, also called Pampapati, the consort of the river goddess Pampa. A shrine of worship since about the 7th century, it became the guardian temple of the Vijayanagara emperors, whose capital grew around it. When the city was sacked in 1565, the temple survived, and it remains in daily worship at the heart of the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Group of Monuments at Hampi.

History
The sanctuary of Virupaksha and Pampa is far older than the city of Vijayanagara. Karnataka Tourism and other sources date the temple's origins to the 7th century, and its history of worship is regarded as unbroken from that time. Inscriptions referring to Shiva here date from the 9th and 10th centuries, and additions were made under the later Chalukyas and the Hoysalas, when the site, known as Pampa Kshetra, was a regional place of pilgrimage. The present shrine of the goddess Bhuvaneshwari is said to have been rebuilt in the Vijayanagara period over an earlier temple.
In the 14th century the brothers Harihara and Bukka founded the Vijayanagara kingdom, with its capital around Hampi. Tradition links the foundation to the sage Vidyaranya, who has a shrine within the temple. Virupaksha was the tutelary deity of the Vijayanagara kings, who issued royal grants in his name. Most of the temple's present buildings date from this period; English Wikipedia and other sources credit Lakkana Dandesha, a chieftain under Deva Raya II (15th century), with building much of the complex, and the great eastern gopura is dated by Karnataka Tourism to the 15th century.
The greatest patron was Krishnadevaraya (ruled 1509–1529). An inscription near the central hall records that he built the great pillared hall (Ranga Mandapa) in 1509–10 to mark his coronation, and he is also associated with gateway towers within the complex. Hampi at this time was one of the largest and richest cities in the world, and the street running east from the temple, now Hampi Bazaar, was its great market and processional way.
In 1565 the Vijayanagara army was defeated at the Battle of Talikota (Rakkasa-Tangadi) by an alliance of the Deccan Sultanates, and the capital was looted and largely destroyed over the following months. The Virupaksha Temple survived better than any other major temple of Hampi, and worship here continued even as the city was abandoned. In the early 19th century major renovations restored its damaged towers and ceilings.
In 1986 UNESCO inscribed the Group of Monuments at Hampi as a World Heritage Site, with the Virupaksha Temple as its living centre. The Archaeological Survey of India protects the monument, while worship continues under the State's religious endowments administration. The temple's annual festivals still draw pilgrims from across Karnataka and beyond.
Legend
According to local tradition, recorded in the Pampa Mahatmya and other sthala puranas, Pampa, a form of Parvati regarded as the daughter of Brahma, performed severe penance on Hemakuta hill beside the river to win Shiva as her husband. Shiva was lost in meditation, and the gods sent Kama (Manmatha), the god of love, to awaken his desire. Disturbed, Shiva opened his third eye and burned Kama to ashes; the Manmatha tank beside the temple is named after this episode.
Moved at last by Pampa's devotion, Shiva agreed to marry her and settled here as Pampapati, 'the lord of Pampa'. The river, too, was once known as Pampa, and the name Hampi itself is believed to derive from it. The betrothal and wedding of Virupaksha and Pampa are re-enacted every year in the temple's festivals. Virupaksha means 'the one with unusual eyes', referring to Shiva's third eye.
The landscape around Hampi is also identified with Kishkindha, the kingdom of the monkey kings Vali and Sugriva in the Ramayana. Devotees revere Anjanadri hill across the river as the birthplace of Hanuman, Matanga hill as the hermitage of the sage Matanga, and Pampa Sarovar as the lake where Shabari waited for Rama. Rama and Lakshmana are believed to have met Hanuman and Sugriva here, at Rishyamukha.
The temple itself holds a quieter marvel that visitors often treat as a miracle: in a dark chamber behind the sanctum, a narrow opening casts an inverted image of the great eastern gopura on the wall, an effect of light working like a pinhole camera.
Architecture
The Virupaksha Temple is a major example of Vijayanagara architecture, the last great phase of the Dravida tradition in the Deccan, built in the granite of the surrounding boulder hills. The complex is aligned east to west along Hampi's main street and is entered through the great eastern gopura, known as the Bistappa gopura. Karnataka Tourism gives it nine storeys and a height of about 50 m, built in the 15th century. Its lower storeys are of stone; the upper tiers are of brick and lime plaster, covered with stucco figures, and the tower is crowned by a barrel-vaulted roof with horn-like finials at the ends.
The eastern gopura leads into a large outer courtyard with subsidiary shrines and pillared halls, and a smaller inner gopura, often associated with Krishnadevaraya, opens into the inner courtyard. On the north side, the Kanakagiri gopura gives access to the Manmatha tank and the river ghats. The temple's tiered plan, with smaller structures repeating the forms of larger ones, has been noted for its fractal-like geometry.
The heart of the complex is the sanctum with the lingam of Virupaksha, preceded by antechambers and a pillared hall, and in front of these the Ranga Mandapa built by Krishnadevaraya in 1509–10. This open hall is the finest piece of the temple: its pillars are carved as rearing yalis, mythical lion-like beasts ridden by warriors, a hallmark of the Vijayanagara style, and its ceiling preserves paintings of the 16th century or later restorations, showing the wedding of Shiva and Pampa, the Dashavatara of Vishnu, Shiva as Tripurantaka, Kama with his bow, and a procession of the sage Vidyaranya.
Shrines of the goddesses Pampa and Bhuvaneshwari stand to the north of the main shrine; the Bhuvaneshwari shrine is noted for its finely turned dark stone pillars and doorframe in the earlier Chalukyan manner. Behind the sanctum, the chamber in which the inverted shadow of the gopura appears is a favourite stop. A channel of water from the Tungabhadra runs along the temple terrace, traditionally supplying its kitchen.
Daily rituals
Morning pooja and darshan
Commonly about 6:00 AM – 1:00 PMThe temple opens early for the morning worship of Virupaksha and the goddesses Pampa and Bhuvaneshwari. No official timetable is published online; hours are commonly reported.
Abhishekam and archana
MorningDevotees may arrange abhishekam (ritual bathing) and archana for Virupaksha at the temple counter.
Evening pooja and darshan
Commonly about 5:00 – 9:00 PMThe temple reopens in the evening, when the lamps are lit and the aarti performed in the inner sanctum.
Holy dip at the Tungabhadra
Early morningMany pilgrims bathe at the river ghats north of the temple, reached through the Kanakagiri gopura, before darshan.
Timings change by season and on festival days. Confirm with the temple trust before you travel.
Festivals
Margashirsha/Pausha (December)
Phalapuja (betrothal of Virupaksha and Pampa)
The ceremony marking the betrothal of the divine couple, celebrated with music and processions in December.
Phalguna–Chaitra (about February–April)
Rathotsava and Kalyanotsava
The annual car festival, when the great chariot is drawn along Hampi Bazaar, together with the ritual wedding of Virupaksha and Pampa. Sources differ on the month, so check the temple's announcement.
Magha/Phalguna (February–March)
Maha Shivaratri
Night-long worship of Virupaksha, drawing large numbers of pilgrims to Hampi.
Varies (usually winter)
Hampi Utsav
A state cultural festival of music, dance and lights organised by the Government of Karnataka among the monuments of Hampi; it is not a temple ritual but brings many visitors.
How to reach
- By air
- The nearest airport is Jindal Vijaynagar Airport at Toranagallu (Ballari district), roughly 35–40 km away, with limited flights. Hubballi Airport, about 160 km away, and Bengaluru's Kempegowda International Airport, about 350 km away, have more connections.
- By rail
- Hosapete Junction is the nearest railway station, about 13–15 km from Hampi, with trains from Bengaluru, Hyderabad, Hubballi and Goa.
- By road
- Frequent local buses and autos run from Hosapete to Hampi Bazaar, which ends at the temple's eastern gopura. Overnight buses connect Hosapete with Bengaluru, Hyderabad and Goa.
- Best time to visit
- October to February is the best season, with pleasant days for exploring the ruins; the Phalapuja falls in December. From March to May the boulder landscape becomes extremely hot. The monsoon months (June–September) are green but humid. Visit the temple early in the morning and explore the wider site afterwards.
Tips for pilgrims
- Footwear must be left at the entrance; the stone courtyards get very hot by midday.
- Ask a guide or temple staff to show you the inverted shadow of the gopura in the chamber behind the sanctum.
- Look up at the painted ceiling of the Ranga Mandapa and the carved yali pillars before entering the inner shrine.
- Climb Hemakuta hill, just south of the temple, at sunrise or sunset for views of the gopura and the Tungabhadra.
- Plan at least two days for Hampi to include the Vittala temple, the royal enclosure and Anjanadri hill.
- Hampi is a protected heritage zone; respect restrictions on climbing monuments and on photography inside the sanctum.
Pack for this yatra
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Questions pilgrims ask
What is the history of the Virupaksha Temple at Hampi?
Worship here is believed to date back to about the 7th century, and inscriptions of the 9th–10th centuries refer to Shiva at this site. Most of the present complex was built under the Vijayanagara Empire, whose kings worshipped Virupaksha as their guardian deity. Krishnadevaraya added the Ranga Mandapa in 1509–10.
Is the Virupaksha Temple still in worship?
Yes. It survived the destruction of Vijayanagara in 1565 and has remained in continuous worship, unlike most of Hampi's other temples.
What is the inverted shadow at Virupaksha Temple?
In a dark chamber behind the sanctum, light through a small opening projects an upside-down image of the eastern gopura on the wall, an effect like a pinhole camera.
What are the Virupaksha Temple timings?
There is no official timetable online. The temple is commonly reported to be open from about 6 AM to 1 PM and 5 PM to 9 PM; confirm locally.
Who is Pampa Devi?
In local tradition, Pampa is a form of Parvati who performed penance on Hemakuta hill to marry Shiva. Shiva married her and stayed here as Pampapati, Virupaksha. The name Hampi comes from Pampa.