मेरी श्रद्धा

Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple, Srirangam

On an island in the Kaveri, the Lord reclines on the serpent Adisesha in 'Bhooloka Vaikuntam', heaven on earth.

The Arulmigu Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple at Srirangam, an island town between the Kaveri and Kollidam rivers near Tiruchirappalli, is honoured as the first and foremost of the 108 Divya Desams of Vishnu. Here Ranganatha reclines on the serpent Adisesha, facing south. Spread over about 156 acres within seven concentric enclosures and 21 gopurams, it is one of the largest functioning Hindu temples in the world, and the heart of the Sri Vaishnava tradition.

Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple, Srirangam
Photo: Wikimedia Commons

History

Srirangam's sanctity is ancient. The temple is praised in 247 of the 4,000 verses of the Naalayira Divya Prabandham, the hymns of the Alvar poet-saints composed between roughly the 6th and 9th centuries; the temple's HR&CE history notes that ten Alvars sang of it, more than for any other shrine. Tradition, recorded in the temple's own history, says that after a flood of the Kaveri buried the sanctum, an early Chola king, remembered as Kili Cholan or Killivalavan, rediscovered it when a parrot led him to the spot, and rebuilt the shrine.

The temple's inscriptions, numbering well over 600 and written in six languages, run from the late 9th to the 16th century and record the gifts of the Cholas, Pandyas, Hoysalas and Vijayanagara rulers. In the 11th–12th centuries the great teacher Ramanujacharya (traditionally 1017–1137) made Srirangam his home. He reorganised the temple's worship and administration, and the HR&CE history notes that the system he established is still followed. Srirangam became the centre of Sri Vaishnava learning, home to later teachers such as Pillai Lokacharya and Vedanta Desika.

The early 14th century brought disaster. Malik Kafur's campaign of 1310–11 plundered the region, and during the invasions of the 1320s by the Delhi Sultanate forces of the Tughluqs the temple was sacked. Tradition holds that some 12,000–13,000 devotees died defending it. The processional image of Ranganatha (Namperumal) was carried away for safety and, as TTD's own history records, kept at Tirumala for decades. After Vijayanagara forces under Kumara Kampana overcame the Madurai Sultanate, the temple was restored and the image reinstalled, a return traditionally dated to 1371.

Under the Vijayanagara emperors and the Nayaks of Madurai, Srirangam grew to its present size. Many of its finest halls date from this period: the Thousand-Pillared Hall of the Vijayanagara era, the Sesharaya (Sesha) Mandapam with its rearing horses, the Garuda Mandapam and the 17th-century Kili Mandapam. A 1674 inscription records the rebuilding of the Venugopala shrine under Chokkanatha Nayak. In the 18th century the fortified temple town was caught up in the Carnatic wars between the French, the British and their allies.

The southern Rajagopuram, begun under Vijayanagara rule about five centuries ago, stood unfinished until the Ahobila Matham resumed work on 20 May 1979; completed with devotees' donations, it was consecrated on 25 March 1987. A Mahasamprokshanam (reconsecration) after major renovation was held in 2015, and in 2017 the temple's conservation work won a UNESCO Asia-Pacific Award of Merit, the first for a temple in Tamil Nadu. The temple is administered by the HR&CE Department of the Government of Tamil Nadu.

Legend

The temple's sthala purana, retold in the HR&CE history, traces the sacred vimana to the beginning of creation. Brahma, through his penance, received from the Milky Ocean the Pranavakara Vimanam, a shrine shaped like the sacred syllable Om, with Vishnu reclining within it. He worshipped it in Satyaloka and appointed Surya to perform its daily worship. In the Treta Yuga, King Ikshvaku, ancestor of Sri Rama, obtained it through penance and brought it to Ayodhya, where it was worshipped by the kings of the Solar dynasty.

After Rama's victory over Ravana, at the time of his coronation, he gave the vimana to Vibhishana as a gift. Carrying it to Lanka, Vibhishana set it down on the bank of the Kaveri, by the Chandra Pushkarini, to perform his rites. When he tried to lift it again, it would not move. Vishnu consoled him and declared that he would remain here, reclining facing south, so that his gaze would rest on Lanka and on Vibhishana. The Chola king Dharmavarma, who had long prayed for the Lord's presence, built walls around the vimana, and the temple grew from there.

Srirangam is also the setting of some of the most beloved stories of the Alvars. Andal, the poet-saint of Srivilliputhur who longed to marry Vishnu, is said to have been brought to Srirangam as a bride and to have merged with Ranganatha in the sanctum. Tiruppan Alvar, born in a community then barred from the temple, was carried into the shrine on the shoulders of the priest Lokasaranga Muni at the Lord's command, and sang his hymn Amalanadipiran before the deity.

The temple's tradition also tells that the poet Kambar first presented his Tamil Ramayana in a mandapam here, and that the Lord's acceptance was signalled by the lion figure of Narasimha nearby. Devotees believe that worship at Srirangam, the 'Bhooloka Vaikuntam', is equal to dwelling in Vishnu's own heaven.

Architecture

Srirangam represents the Dravida temple at its most expansive: a temple that has grown outward over a thousand years into a walled town. Seven concentric rectangular enclosures (prakarams), their walls running to nearly 10 km in total, surround the sanctum; the outer three contain streets of houses, shops and mathas, while the inner four form the temple proper. The complex covers about 156 acres according to the HR&CE Department, with 21 gopurams, dozens of sub-shrines, many mandapams and water tanks, including the Chandra and Surya Pushkarinis.

The southern Rajagopuram, the main entrance, rises 236 ft (about 73 m) in 13 tiers topped by 13 kalashas; the HR&CE Department calls it the tallest temple tower in Asia. Its granite base and lower storey date from the Vijayanagara period, while the upper tiers were completed between 1979 and 1987. Further gateways line the north-south axis to the sanctum, and the Vellai (white) Gopuram on the east side of the fourth enclosure, about 44 m high, is notable for its plain white finish.

At the centre, the sanctum houses Ranganatha reclining on the coils of Adisesha, facing south, with Sridevi and Bhudevi; the image is held to be svayambhu (self-manifested). Over it rises the golden Pranavakara Vimanam, its curved form recalling the syllable Om, with an image of Paravasudeva on its face. Separate shrines are dedicated to the goddess Ranganayaki, who by tradition never leaves her shrine, as well as to Chakkarathalvar (Sudarshana), Venugopala, Dhanvantari, Ramanuja and many others.

The mandapams are among the finest of the Vijayanagara and Nayak periods. The Sesharaya Mandapam is famous for its pillars carved as rearing horses with riders, hunting scenes and yalis, all cut in granite. The Thousand-Pillared Hall, in the fourth enclosure, is used during the Vaikunta Ekadasi festival. The Garuda Mandapam has a great seated Garuda facing the sanctum, and the Venugopala shrine carries some of the most delicate female figure sculpture in Tamil Nadu. Ceilings in several halls retain painted murals.

Daily rituals

  • Viswaroopa darshan

    From 6:00 AM (commonly until about 7:15 AM)

    The day opens with the Viswaroopa (first) darshan, when the Lord is shown to devotees after being woken, with the cow and elephant traditionally brought before him. It is among the most sought-after darshans.

  • Morning darshan

    9:00 AM – 12:30 PM

    According to the HR&CE site, darshan is closed from 7:15 to 9:00 AM for the morning rituals and reopens at 9 AM.

  • Afternoon darshan

    2:15 – 5:30 PM

    The temple's official timetable lists a break from 12:30 to 2:15 PM, after which darshan resumes until 5:30 PM.

  • Evening darshan

    7:00 – 9:00 PM

    After the evening break (5:30–7:00 PM), darshan continues until the temple closes at 9 PM. Devotees are advised to arrive at least an hour before closing.

  • Ranganayaki Thayar darshan

    During darshan hours

    Devotees also visit the separate shrine of the goddess Ranganayaki. In tradition, her processional image does not leave the shrine; Ranganatha comes to her during festivals.

Timings change by season and on festival days. Confirm with the temple trust before you travel.

Festivals

Margazhi (December–January)

Vaikunta Ekadasi (Pagal Pathu and Ra Pathu)

The temple's greatest festival, spread over 21 days and drawing around a million pilgrims. On Vaikunta Ekadasi the Paramapada Vasal (gate of heaven) is opened at dawn and Namperumal passes through it to the Thousand-Pillared Hall. The Araiyar Sevai, a rare tradition of singing and enacting the Alvars' hymns, is performed during this festival.

Panguni (March–April)

Panguni Brahmotsavam and Panguni Uthiram

A major annual festival ending on Panguni Uthiram, when Ranganatha and Ranganayaki are seen together in the Serthi Sevai, the only day the divine couple appear side by side.

Chithirai (April–May)

Chithirai Ther (car festival)

The great temple car is drawn around the Chithirai streets by thousands of devotees.

Aani (June–July)

Jyeshtabhishekam

An annual purification when the gold and silver coverings of the deities are removed and cleaned, and holy water is brought from the Kaveri in gold and silver pots.

How to reach

By air
Tiruchirappalli International Airport is about 15 km from the temple, with domestic flights and international services to Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Colombo, Dubai and other cities.
By rail
Srirangam railway station is about 1–2 km from the temple; Tiruchirappalli Junction, about 10 km away, has trains from across India.
By road
Srirangam lies about 12 km north of central Tiruchirappalli. Frequent town buses run from the Chathiram and Central bus stands, and autos and taxis are easily available.
Best time to visit
October to March offers the most comfortable weather. The Vaikunta Ekadasi festival in December–January is the most spiritually significant and crowded time; book accommodation early. Summers (April–June) are very hot, so plan visits in the morning and evening.

Tips for pilgrims

  • Check the HR&CE site for the darshan breaks before you go; the temple is closed to darshan at set times during the day and timings change during festivals.
  • Allow at least half a day; walking through the seven enclosures from the Rajagopuram to the sanctum is a pilgrimage in itself.
  • Wear traditional or modest dress; footwear must be left outside the inner enclosures.
  • Do not miss the Sesharaya Mandapam's horse pillars and the Venugopala shrine's sculptures.
  • Visit the Ramanuja shrine within the temple and, nearby, the Jambukeswarar (Thiruvanaikaval) temple, one of the Pancha Bhoota Sthalams.
  • Photography is not allowed in the sanctum areas; follow the instructions of temple staff.

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Questions pilgrims ask

What are the Srirangam temple timings?

According to the temple's official HR&CE site, the temple is open from 6:00 AM to 9:00 PM, with darshan closed from 7:15 to 9:00 AM, 12:30 to 2:15 PM and 5:30 to 7:00 PM. Timings change during festivals.

Why is Srirangam called Bhooloka Vaikuntam?

Srirangam is the first and foremost of Vishnu's 108 Divya Desams, and devotees believe that the Lord's presence here makes it heaven (Vaikuntam) on earth (Bhooloka).

Why does Lord Ranganatha face south?

According to the temple's sthala purana, when Vibhishana set the vimana down here on his way to Lanka, Vishnu chose to stay, facing south towards Lanka to bless Vibhishana.

How tall is the Srirangam Rajagopuram?

The southern Rajagopuram is 236 ft (about 73 m) tall with 13 tiers. Begun in the Vijayanagara period, it was completed by the Ahobila Matham and consecrated on 25 March 1987.

When is Vaikunta Ekadasi at Srirangam?

It falls in the Tamil month of Margazhi (December–January) within a 21-day festival. The Paramapada Vasal is opened at dawn on the Ekadasi day.

Sources

Great temples of the South